View from Hunza to Nagar and Diran Peak [7266m]

During the spring of 1996 I had the pleasure to visit the Hunza Valley in Northern Pakistan for three weeks. This valley, set amidst the Karakoram Range, is renowned for the longevity of it's inhabitants, the beauty of it's people and vistas, and the delicious apricots, almonds, and dried fruit grown here. It is a wonderful, magical place whose memory has stayed in my heart since my visit. I would like to thank the kind hosts, warm friends, and hospitable inhabitants who made our journey spectacular.

This valley is composed of terraced ridges running from the high pastures down to the river, with extensive irrigation channels bringing meltwater from the glaciers to the terraced fields and villages. A wide variety of crops are grown here; including potatoes, barley, wheat, and vegetables - along with apricots, apples, cherries, almonds, and other fruit/nut crops. We hiked the valley during the apricot tree bloom, a beautiful time of spring of planting and blossoms.

At an elevation of 2400 meters [8800 feet], the Hunza River drains this valley, connecting to the Gilgit Valley to the south. Settlement ranges a few thousand feet up the valley, with the high pastures used by shepherds and their flock in the summer.

This area has been easily accessible since in1986 when the Karakoram Highway was completed, running through the Khunjerab Pass and into China. This has opened the valley to increasing tourist visits and the social transformation that occurs along with this. Evidence of this transformation is found throughout the central valley, though away from the highway the valley is more primitive.

Apricots and Almonds, a Traditional Welcoming Snack

Hunza can be broken into three sections geographically: Hunza, Nagar, and Gojal. Hunza is on the northern side of the central valley, Nagar is on the southern side. Gojal is located further up the valley, around a mountain ridge. For more on Gojal, see Hunza Part 2. We spent most of our time in Hunza proper, located on the sunny side of the valley, with incredible views of Rakaposhi [7700m]. Generally, Nagar is Shia and Hunza is Ismaili Muslim.

We stayed about ten days in Hunza, hiking up to the `Eagle's Nest' above Altit for spectacular views of the whole valley. Along the hike, we went to Duiker which is where many irrigation channels feed off the glacier and the location of a pure spring. Proof of the health and longevity of Hunzakuts was evident, as the 60+ year old host of our hotel beat 20-something Americans up the mountain in half the time. While we labored into camp exhausted and dizzy, he had made arrangements, had tea, and headed back down to the lower valley.

Eagles Nest Rest House, above Altit, Hunza

Terraced fields above altit, just planted

Ultar, looking north from central Hunza this mountain is central to the view. Never climbed successfully.

View from hike to Eagles Nest - looking at residential compound and central valley beyond. Nagar is on left, Hunza on right side of river gorge.

One very striking thing about Hunza Valley is the amount of intelligent development work which has been done and is still going on. As this area is Ismaili Muslim, it has received a great deal of assistance from the Aga Khan. Much of this money has been used to build schools, hospitals, and essential infrastructure. One outcome of this is that over half the population is under age 25 due to increasing health care, another is that both sexes are educated. The Aga Khan came in 1987 to dedicate a Girls Academy, a rare institution in Pakistan. The respect and status given to women in Hunza made this area much more pleasant to travel [with a Western woman] than much of Pakistan.

This was evident even in Gilgit, where the only women in the bazaars were Hunza women, having travelled to market via bus for the day. Everywhere we went, women were evident and friendly, evidence of the higher freedom and status given them in Hunza society.

Smiling Hunza Girls, along hiking trail

The shadows that are cast by these huge mountains and large vertical faces provide a beautiful transition as the day goes by. As the morning goes by, the mountain reveals valleys unseen, glaciers sparking above, and shadows. Here is Rakaposhi and Diran, lost in the glare on top, taken in the early morning.

Until the sun rises to be visible, the temperature is quite cold. Once the sun moved over the mountains, the temperature varies widely. The high altitude works much like a desert that way - plus this is fairly arid country.

Down near the Hunza river are the `Sacred Rock', actually rocks which are covered with ibex and script petroglyphs mainly. These attest to travellers coming through, as well as the old animistic beliefs. Ibex were commonly sacrified here before Islamization, and used to be hunted widely. Our only sighting came from binoculars, of a couple goat-like distant animals moving on the distant hillsides. Sadly, much of the game has been hunted to near extinction, plus the intensive agriculture has infringed upon some of their territory.

Near the Khunerjab pass to China there is a large game park, with some of the few Marco Polo sheep left. It is difficult to reach and visit, beyond our abilities and time this trip.